Fendi Fizzles: Milan’s Mid Moment or Trendy Triumph?

Ah, Fendi. A name synonymous with Italian opulence, where every stitch whispers luxury and every piece screams la dolce vita. Let’s talk about the visionary steering this iconic ship—Kim Jones, the creative director breathing new life into Fendi’s ready-to-wear line. His arrival in 2020 was nothing short of grandioso, a much-anticipated move after his acclaimed stints at Louis Vuitton and Dior Men. His mission? To infuse Fendi’s storied Roman history with his signature street-savvy edge, all while honoring Silvia Venturini Fendi’s legacy of genius accessories (hello, Baguette bag!).

But enough about the vecchi tempi, let’s fast-forward to September 17, 2024, where Fendi opened Milan Fashion Week. Milan! The city that practically invented la moda. The scene was set for a dazzling kickoff to fashion’s grandest stage. Expectations were soaring higher than a perfectly crafted espresso shot. After all, Fendi’s history of pushing boundaries and redefining modernity had us all hoping for something fuori dal mondo.

And yet... it was mid. Mid, mid, midissimo. The Spring 2025 collection left me with a strange sense of déjà vu—like I’d seen these pieces stroll down the runway under another name. Unapologetically, it felt like a cut-and-paste rendition of trends we’ve already been inundated with. Sure, the fabrics were intriguing and the tailoring sharp, but where was the risk? Where was the audacity? The Fendi that strutted on September 17th didn’t give me innovation; it gave me “Prada did it first.”

Don’t misunderstand me, amici miei—I adore Fendi. The Baguette bag is a masterpiece, cescaious in every sense. No one had ever dared to create a bag quite like it, and that’s exactly why it captured our hearts (and our wallets). It was innovative, fresh, something the fashion world hadn’t seen before. But the collection that walked in Milan? It lacked that signature brilliance. Instead of blazing its own trail, Fendi seemed to be chasing trends—oversized silhouettes, muted palettes, logos that whispered rather than roared. 

Yes, I get it. Not every Italian designer is cut from the same cloth, and not every season can be groundbreaking. But Fendi has the potential, the gravitas, to be the leader in shaping what’s next in fashion. The Spring 2025 ready-to-wear line felt like it was designed to please the masses, not the true fashion connoisseur. It’s as if the house is steering toward the mainstream, hoping to control the current fast-fashion market instead of embracing the daring creativity that once set it apart.

Now, don’t get me wrong. I’ll absolutely be wearing pieces from this collection. There were certain articles—the fabrics, a few standout jackets—that honed in on me. They were tailored to perfection and undeniably chic. But was I moved? Did I feel inspired? Did I sense that this was Fendi making a statement about where fashion is headed? No, unfortunately. For this season, I didn’t hear Fendi's voice echoing through the clothes. It was more of a murmur, a subtle nod to what’s already been done.

Fendi has always been about more than just trends—it’s about steering its own ship through the ever-changing tides of fashion. This season, however, it felt like the house was content to drift along with the current. Yes, the pieces were lovely. Yes, they were wearable. But they lacked the bold confidence Fendi is known for. If they’re going to lean into the roaring 2020s trend, it should be done in Fendi’s iconic, unforgettable way, not just a vague interpretation of what’s already out there.

Am I still a Fendi fan? Absolutely. Will I be watching closely for their next move? Senza dubbio. But for Spring 2025, the collection didn’t feel like a trendsetter—it felt like a follower. Fashion is about more than keeping up with the times; it’s about transcending them. And I know Fendi has the power to do just that. Here’s hoping next season brings back that audacious flair we’ve come to adore.

View the bits of the collection below and let me know—are you feeling the Fendi fire

You know you can’t get enough,  

Editor-In-Chief,  

XOXO, Overrated